I am okay with art museums. But what I really like is art that’s about power. And that’s why I love the art in the Doge’s Palace. It was the seat of power for Venice, which, although it is a city built on a marsh, was also a republic–not a...read more
How do they not crash? I am just starting to discover the secret of Venice and the plan behind the chaos. Some of it, I think, is luck. For example, those early 1500-BC settlers who found refuge from barbarians on these silty islands and started sinking wooden pylons...read more
Our hotel, the Locanda Vivaldi, as is often so true in life, is a double-edged sword. Located in the thick of things, just two bridges down from San Marco, we step out into a maelstorm of daytrippers and international hawkers selling selfie sticks and laser beam toys....read more
We head out to Italy in July and August–when the temperatures are hottest and the crowds are thickest.
But we find rooftop pools, rocky beaches and fresh breezes.
And lots of quiet byways off the teeming streets.