Italy!

A Wrinkle in Time

A Wrinkle in Time

If ever there were a spot to start a time-traveling adventure, it would be here at Polvere di Tempo, via del Moro 59, Trastevere. Globes hang from the ceiling, hourglasses, big and small, line the shelves. You’re at the nexus of space and time. This slideshow...

read more
Eating Our Way Through Italy

Eating Our Way Through Italy

We ate our way through Italy (of course!) Armed with our Bible, the Osterie & Locande D’Italia (a “slow food” guide) and our Lonely Planet guide books and assisted by various taxi drivers and concierges, we had only a couple of misses in 19 days....

read more
The Power of Perseverance

The Power of Perseverance

Enslaved by the ancient Romans, walled in by the city of Rome (but not expelled, at least), deported and murdered by the Nazis, the Jews of Rome remain after 2200 years. This slideshow requires JavaScript. The Great Synagogue of  Rome in the Jewish Ghetto is filled...

read more
These Crazy Italians!

These Crazy Italians!

These crazy Italians! We go to Gradola, a cliffside beach club around the corner from the Grotta Azura and everyone is jumping off the cliffs!! And so do we. But then it gets even crazier. At 5:45 p.m., the official tour boats that take people into the grotto leave....

read more
Why I want to be Italian Reason #1

Why I want to be Italian Reason #1

Why do I want to be Italian? It’s the cousin network. Sunday we went an all-day boat ride up the Amalfi Coast–snorkeling, playing in a waterfall and just enjoying each other. But, day’s end, when we left the boat, jumping off to swim in to the beach...

read more
Our Favorite Hotel

Our Favorite Hotel

La Tonnarella, a castle-like hotel perched on a rocky promontory overlooking Sorrento. It could be the setting for an Agatha Christie mystery–except it is too sweet and beautiful. It has its own beach–accessed by a tiny elevator that descends down the...

read more
Naples

Naples

We spent just one night–and it was not enough. It has New York energy. And it also seems as though it doesn’t care. It’s sort of, “Here I am, this is me, love me, or don’t.” And we love it.     This slideshow requires...

read more
Behind Closed Doors

Behind Closed Doors

Wherever we go in places like Venice, I’m fascinated by what lies behind those ornate doors. And, thanks to the Biennale, we get behind a few doors that are normally closed to the public, but whose owners open them up to the public in the name of art....

read more
Tiramisu Outside Plato’s Cave

Tiramisu Outside Plato’s Cave

Remember Plato’s allegory of the cave? What we see usually is just the shadow of the true world, out in the light is the truth. Or something like that. Down this dark alley, I found the tiramisu that is outside the cave. Tiramisu has never been for me. But here...

read more
Our Museums in Venice

Our Museums in Venice

A good museum, in my book, prompts you to ask more questions–and to search for answers. And two museums in Venice did that for all four of us. The Fortuny Museum and the Jewish Museum in the Ghetto. The Fortuny was just provoking in a wonderful way, but also...

read more

We head out to Italy in July and August–when the temperatures are hottest and the crowds are thickest.

But we find rooftop pools, rocky beaches and fresh breezes.

And lots of quiet byways off the teeming streets.

It’s great.