Our little cave, or yposkafa, originally held donkeys. But our enterprising landlord, Dmitri, has totally redone it in shades of vibrant blues and soft mauves. It’s small and packed with nooks and has the sort of view that prompts my 18-year-old daughter to say, “I want to come here and write.”

In short, if you’re trying to tap into your inner muse, this is the spot.

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Dmitri has thought of everything: refrigerator stocked with staples: milk, juice and wine; slippers, hair blow dryer, shampoo. Just like a hotel, but it’s our little apartment on the Aegean.

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