Oia is the spot to watch the sunset from when you’re in Santorini. And that’s where our little yposkafa–cave house-is located.

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Our ypskal  is all that the photos promised, but even better.

It is just next to the Oia Fortress, a spot fabled as the place in Santorini to watch the sun set. And watch it we do, every night, from our terrace, sipping wine.

And I love our host, Dimitrios Mylonas, young, enterprising and very hard working. He came here for,a weekend several years ago, and never left.

He transformed the cave we stayed in; which before he leased it, housed donkeys (we see them everywhere, carting construction materials, bags of garbage, even luggage. Our little cave home and scores like it, as well as houses, are on slopes so steeps and accessed by staircases and paths that meander so crookedly that donkeys are uniquely valuable here). Dimitrios lived in it for a year and made a small but beautifully laid out apartment; bathroom in mottled blues, living room and tiny kitchen in pure white, little alcoves serving as storage areas. It’s got luxury hotel touches: designer toiletries, slippers, bathrobes, daily housekeeping service, an espresso machine and a fridge stocked with wine, milk, juice and other staples.